Posts tagged 'Kilted wedding'
MODERN AND FORMAL HIGHLAND WEAR
Blending a number of influences dating back 100 to 200 or more years, contemporary kilt jackets, (and highland wear in general) offer more variety now than any other genre of gentlemen’s clothing. Here is a run-down of the origins and details of the standard jacket types you can buy. As we mentioned in Part I, the Victorians set the mold for most modern Highland attire. However, there have been a few innovations and refinements (as well as throw-backs) developed in the 20th century.
When most people think of Argyll jackets, they envision a basic black suit jacket and vest with some fancy buttons. And that is accurate -- the Argyll is the modern go-to if you need a multi-purpose suit option for formal or semi-formal occasions. It is a hybrid of traditional doublets and suit jackets developed by the Victorians. You can think of it as a doublet minus the tashes (tails on the front and back). Argyll jackets once had more variety before splitting off entirely from doublets. Old photographs show quite a variety. Below, we see first a Victorian doublet (left), a transitional Argyll Doublet circa 1912 (center), and a modern Argyll Jacket and Vest (right).
Standard Argyll features:
- ~ Single-button closure "Gauntlet" cuffs
- ~ Scalloped pockets (pocket flaps designed after the braiding and decorative buttons on doublet tashes)
- ~ Epaulettes (flat or braided)
- ~ Metal buttons (silver, pewter or gilt). In time these were standardized to the square "Clann Nar Gael” buttons we see today, though the exact origins of the “loyalty” button are obscure.
- ~ Worn with a matching five-button vest. The vest can be worn by itself for warmer, less formal occasions such as festivals.
- ~ Suitable for black tie affairs such as weddings, formal suppers and dances.
- ~ Also can be worn with a necktie and used like a regular suit, particularly if you are "on display" (for example - judges of competitions are almost always in Argyll jackets).
“Argyll” is sometimes used as a general term for “Scottish suit jacket” or “kilt jacket”. But it is more accurate to use other terms when discussing contemporary designs. Most contemporary jackets emulate ordinary (“Saxon”) suit jackets in their minimalistic detailing and sillouttte, but are cut short in the body to accommodate the kilt. (This is why jacket conversions are a really bad idea, by the way) One of the most popular contemporary kilt jackets is the “Wallace” also known as a Crail kilt jacket. As you can see below, it more or less evolved out of the Victorian sack jackets.
Wallace Crail Jacket Features:
- ~ No ornamentation
- ~ Single-button “Crail” cuffs
- ~ Traditional “Clann Nar Gael” buttons usually in pewter or matt black
- ~ Herringbone barathea wool, usually black
- ~ Matching five-button vest
The “Kilkenny” is a modern variant on the Argyll designed to add Irish flair. It features simialr styling to an Argyll, but with an elegant irish twist. Some of the styling was borrowed from Victorian military fashion.
Kilkenny Jacket and Vest features:
- ~ Usually made in black or bottle green barathea wool
- ~ Pewter or bronze Irish Harp buttons
- ~ Pointed cuff decoration borrowed from Victorian military shell and mess jackets.
- ~ Two-button closure
- ~ Can be worn with a matching five-button vest.
Technically there's really no difference between the standard black Argyll jacket and vest most kilt-wearers have in their closets and a tweed set...except the fabric. But this is a hugely important difference. Tweed Argyll jackets are usually day wear -- suitable for the office, festivals, the pub, Burns Suppers, etc. Although the least formal of all jackets, they are by far the most interesting. There are hundreds of tweeds available including herringbone and windowpane patterns. The fun lies in finding that perfect tweed to match your tartan and personal style.
Since most tweed sets are custom-made, the options you may consider also extend to other features. Do you prefer scalloped pockets and gauntlet cuffs? Flat or braided epaulettes? Lapels on the vest? Or perhaps no ornamentation at all for a more streamlined "crail" look? Antler, leather or pewter buttons? The sky's the limit!
While less common today, tartan suits have been around for as long as tartan itself. Modernly, the easiest way to think of a tartan kilt suit is like a tweed set -- you can customize each element to suit your tastes. Usually, sedate tartans will be more pleasing to the eye, so consider using a hunting tartan, weathered or muted tartan. Ancient colour-palette tartans can work. However most modern colour-palette tartans will look garish to the modern eye. A Tartan Vest can be used with a tartan kilt, a tweed kilt, or with trousers, so it is a great option for occasions where you do not wish to wear a kilt.
Tweed kilt jacket suits are currently fashionable. But nobody should think they are something “new”. John Brown, ghillie to Queen Victoria, had one. Essentially a tweed kilt suit is just using the same cloth for an entire outfit. It can be very sharp looking. One interesting look is to use a tartan necktie with a tweed kilt suit -- thus adding a splash of color and interest while also denoting one’s clan affiliation.
The most recognized formal kilt jacket is a relatively late evolution; the Bonny Prince Charlie jacket, originally named the "Prince Charlie Coatee". The Prince Charlie (or PC) with its accompanying low-cut waistcoat, was developed in the early 20th century. The name "Prince Charlie" was certainly a marketing device of the originating tailors. What it was, in essence, was a Highland option for younger gents who wanted to look stylish and sleek while also traditional. It was presented as a less fusty alternative to the formal doublet worn by Victorians like Grand-dad.
A true hybrid, the PC is part Jazz-age tuxedo and part "coatee" decorated with elements common to 19th-century doublets. The coatee was originally a military cut-away coat with tails adorned with buttons and braiding; a style with roots in the 18th century and streamlined in the early- to mid-19th. Below, you can see some of the evolution: Napoleonic era Coatee (left), Victorian Officer’s Mess Jacket with low-collar waistcoat (center), modern Prince Charlie (right)
Bonny Prince Charlie "Coatee" features:
- ~ Tails with silver “Clann Nar Gael” buttons
- ~ "Braemar" cuffs
- ~ Braided epaulettes
- ~ Silk / satin peak lapels
- ~ Upward-angled bottom hemline (true coatees are straight-cut, like a Montrose jacket)
- ~ Low-cut, shawl-collared three-button waistcoat
- ~ Black as the standard color, though custom colors are available
- ~ Suitable for black-tie and white-tie occasions only (“after six”)
An Irish twist on the Prince Charlie, the Brian Boru is interestingly more similar to the Officer’s Mess Dress jacket which inspired both jackets. I personally prefer it since it looks more Edwardian to my eye. Brian Boru jacket.
Brian Boru features:
- ~ Tails with pewter irish harp buttons
- ~ Chain-button closure on jacket
- ~ Pointed Chevron cuff decorations
- ~ Braided epaulettes
- ~ Silk / satin shawl collar
- ~ Low-cut, shawl-collared three-button waistcoat
- ~ Black as the standard color, though custom colors are available
- ~ Suitable for black-tie and white-tie occasions only (“after six”)
Doublets in various designs have never gone away. They are now reserved strictly for bagpipe bands or formal wear (unless you are a rock star or a really fashion-forawrd person). Modern doublets still bear all the hallmarks of their Victorian predecessors. However, there is a marked difference between the military-esque doublets used by pipers and those for civilian formal dress.
The modern civilian version is known as a "Regulation Doublet" and was first offered around 1900. Like the Prince Charlie, it is a hybrid. It looks, for all intents, like a PC jacket but with tashes instead of the coatee-style tails. It is usually made of black barathea, but bright red is another popular option -- especially for men with a military background.
Then there is the highly romantic Chieftan's Vest. This garment is actually a sleeveless doublet designed to emulate a historical look but with modern penache. It is not really consdiered rormal wear, though it is a very popualr choice for fantasy, rennaisance, or historically themed weddings. it's a fun accessory for festivals and fairs or parties and looks great paired with a highland shirt or even a Great Kilt.
Below: Military-style Pipe Band Doublet (left), Regulation Doublet (center), Chieftan's Vest (right). Quite a difference! And yet each one still retains distinct doublet features such as the tashes - the flaps hanging down from the waistline.
The Sheriffmuir Doublet Jacket
Gaining popularity fast, the Sheriffmuir is a hybrid formal jacket styled after 18th- and 19th-century military doublets. It is similar to other doublets except that it features a standing collar and is not made to close. It is usually worn with a matching high-cut, five or six button vest, but tis optional and varies. The Sheriffmuir may feature Braemar or gauntlet cuffs depending on the maker (the gauntlets are more common). It is often rendered in velvet instead of wool. Black is still the standard color, but it may be made in other colors such as grey, red, green or even purple. Sheriffmuir sets are often worn with a Jabot (a lace ruffled neckerchief) and lace cuffs. USA Kilts can custom order a Sheriffmuir for you. Feel free to contact us.
The Montrose Doublet
The Montrose is a double-breasted variant doublet. However, it's military pedigree comes from the 19th-century Shell Jacket (below, left). This accounts for the double-breasted construction and two rows of five buttons as well as the lack of tashes. The Montrose is typically worn with a belt, a lace jabot and lace cuffs. It can be made of barathea wool or velvet. USA Kilts can custom order a Montrose Doublet for you. Feel free to contact us.
Sheriffmuir and Montrose jackets have an odd reputation. They are seen by some as very romantic and appropriately traditional. By others as too effeminate to the modern eye. They are certainly not ubiquitous the way the Prince Charlie is -- more of an option for someone who wants something different.
The Kenmore Doublet
The Kenmore doublet, also designed around 1900, is a single-breasted version of a Montrose Doublet, but with tashes. It is a middle-ground between the old-fashioned doublet and more modern wear. Another way to think of it is as a stiped down military bagpiper's doublet. The point being, it offers a military look for civilian formal wear. It is typically offered in velvet, but barathea wool is also used. It can be worn with or without a jabot.
Clearly, Highland fashion is the culmination of many elements. And certainly it will continue to evolve as gentlemen re-examine old styles, invent new pieces, and combine elements to create all-together new looks. This just goes to prove that ours is a dynamic tradition full of romance and elegance as well as creativity.
Nothing else more clearly says "Celtic wedding" than having a genuine bagpiper included in your ceremony. Did you know Bagpipers are actually considered good luck? It’s an old custom to have the piper be the first one to greet the bride, thus ensuring a long and happy marriage. But of course the whole point of hiring a piper is the traditional music. It's a timeless gift to be enjoyed by everyone attending your wedding -- a sure way to make it memorable.
How do you hire a bagpiper for your wedding?
Many professional pipers have websites. Or you can find them by searching facebook profiles. Your wedding planner may have contacts for pipers in your area. Another option is to look up local bagpipe bands -- most pipers who do weddings also play with a pipe band. Once you have a name, check for reviews.
Listen to samples of your prospective piper's music.
Most pipers who perform weddings professionally are typically highly trained musicians. Be cautious if a friend suggests someone willing to play for free. Hobbyists may mean well and come cheaply, but the music may not be all that great. Be sure to listen to samples of them playing. Most pipers these days will happily share clips on Youtube.
How will the bagpiper look?
Naturally, he will be kilted. Most professional bagpipers will have a basic Argyll jacket and vest as part of their kit. Some may also be able to dress in different styles to suit your wedding's theme. For example, a tweed set for a more rustic theme, or a highland shirt for a romantic, historical or rennaisance theme. Ask them what they can or are willing to do. But always remember the playing is far more important than the uniform.
When should the bagpiper play during the wedding ceremony?
The clear answer is "whenever you want them to play". But typically a piper will be hired to do one or more of the following:
> As guests arrive.
> Process the bride in.
> To accentuate moments during the ceremony - for example as background while the handfasting cord is tied, or a unity candle lit.
> Process the new couple out.
> As guests leave.
> Introduce the couple at the reception, usually by leading the Grand March.
> Performing the Quaich Ceremony (non-musical)
What traditional Scottish wedding music can you choose from?
If you are not sure what songs you'd like your piper to play, ask them for suggestions. Their repetoire will include many jigs, reels and marches and they will have personal favorites they are especially good at playing. They will also know these popular tunes, which are wedding classics:
Glendaruel Highlanders – a happy, energetic tune ideal for welcoming the groom and bride as they approach the wedding venue.
Bluebells of Scotland -- a beautiful and heart-stirring tune which adds romance to the ceremony.
Highland Wedding – another joyous song often used for the recessional or as a more Celtic alternative to the Bridal March.
Scotland the Brave or Mairi’s Wedding – both great choices for the Grand March - the ceremonial entrance of the wedding party and guests into the reception hall.
Flower of Scotland -- a beloved national song, almost an unofficial national anthem. You can enjoy this almost any time during the ceremony or reception.
A few other traditional favorites for the wedding or reception:
The Green Hills of Tyrol
Wearing of the Green
The Minstrel Boy
Merrily Kissed the Quaker's Wife
How much should I spend on a bagpiper?
Most pipers offer an hourly rate. The current average is between $150.00 and $200.00. One hour's worth is an unofficial minimum and includes at least one song performance, as well as the piper's travel time and costs. If all you need is for them to process you in, you will probably pay for an hour. One hour could also include some background music as the guests arrive at the venue. If you want the piper present throughout the ceremony and at the reception, you will of course pay more.
What will the bagpiper require?
Clear communication is a must. details such as where/when to play, who to escort, etc should all be ironed out well in advance -- part of contracting the piper in the first place. Pipers do not usually attend rehearsals. If you really want them to, expect to pay them for their time. For the big day, make sure your piper knows exactly when to be on site. You should provide them with clear directions to the venue (including any necessary details like what door to use, which hall the recption is in, etc.) and a good parking spot. If at all possible arrange for a quiet, isolated spot where they can tune up. Shade is ideal if the wedding is outdoors. A bottle of water is always appreciated. Most pipers will not expect to be fed or treated as a guest in the reception.
NOTE: It is NOT recommended to have the bagpiper's performance be a surprise. While it may seem like a romantic idea, it makes it very difficult to coordinate the performance. A piper who is asked to hide is being asked to tune quietly or not at all -- not good. They will end up rushing to appear at the appointed moment and the song may come off badly. Or worse, someone who does not know about the sceret plan may get in the way.
Finally, if your piper makes suggestions about the ceremony or performance -- take them seriously. He or she is a professional and has probably seen many successful (as well as unsuccessful) weddings. Their goal is the same as yours -- to make the day run as smoothly as possible and be joyous.
We can't resist ending on a humorous (and sour) note, so here's the final piece of advice...
As a matter of fact, there are many ideas to choose from. Most of these quaint and touching customs were intended to bless the new couple with good fortune, expressing the fond wishes of their loved ones.
To a Long Life
The Best Man, or another friend, should give the couple a clock to represent longevity. This harkens back to when clocks were new and very expensive -- a significant contribution to the newlyweds' new household. You may see timepieces marketed as "wedding clocks" today because of this old custom. Mondernly, a pocketwatch is sometimes given as a more personal gift to the groom. Another symbol of longevity is the infinite (or infinity) knot used as a design on many celtic wedding bands.
Before the big day, the bride should receive a Luckenbooth pin. These brooches, shaped like a heart topped by a crown, were originally symbols of betrothal (a Scottish equivalent of the Irish Claddagh). The curious name comes from the "locked booths" of the jewlers along the Royal Mile in Edinburg from whom the would-be groom would buy the item. Like an engagement ring, it represented an investment and serious commitment. The Luckenbooth may be pinned to the bride during the ceremony. Later, it may also be pinned to the shawl of the couple's baby at its christening.
In old times, a bride would give her groom a shirt, the "wedding sark". This probably harkens back to medieval times when the women of the household made all the clothing for the family. The sark represented her love and commitment and also advertised her domestic skills. (Similarly, this is why you wear new clothes in Easter Sunday -- they indicated that the household was content and that the womenfolk had been secure and productive during the long winter months) In return, the groom would buy the wedding dress. Nowadays, mutual gifts of clothing can be a fun as well as well as meaningful gesture. It could be items to wear during the ceremony, or "for fun" things to change into for the reception or the first day of the honeymoon.
Another token of good fortune and happiness is the inclusion of white heather in the bouquet, boutonnieres and other flower arrangements - it's just an all around great decoration. In Scotland, heather is said to be stained with the blood of clan wars. White is therefore the luckiest for it has grown where no blood has been shed. Scottish warriors often wore a sprig of white heather for protection. Queen Victoria popularized the wearing of white heather by brides. If you prefer the purple variety, don't fret -- all heather is symbolic of strength, resilience and domestic well-being. A genuine, hand-braided heather broom is a classic home blessing gift.
Sharing the Tartan
Tartan is always on proud display at a Celtic wedding: the groom's kilt, binding the bouquet, sashes or rosettes for the bridesmaids, table and altar cloths...it can be everywhere! We already mentioned using a bit of tartan cloth for a Handfasting, but there is more one may do. Often, the groom's ensemble will include a Fly Plaid (the cape-like tartan thrown over the shoulder and secured with a large brooch). During the ceremony, especially during vows or the homily, the groom may drape his fly plaid over the bride's shoulder. Alternately, he may present her with a sash or shawl in his family tartan so that as they leave the altar together, they match. Another variation is for the bride to pin the fly plaid on the groom (especially if it is her family's tartan). Other family members or an officiant may also present tartan to the bride and/or groom. There really is no wrong way to use this beautiful and symbolic cloth.
At the conclusion of the wedding you may want to host a Scramble. It's quite simple; the groom, or sometimes the bride’s father or Best Man, takes coins from his sporran and tosses them about for the childen at the gathering to "scramble" for. This gesture demonstrates generosity, which was heavily linked to good fortune in ancient times. It can be a fun alternative to throwing rice or bird seed at the couple, or done in conjunction.
Stepping out...or in
In a traditional Scottih wedding, the couple are not so much introduced at the reception as paraded in. And everyone takes part. This is known as the "Scottish Grand March" and it really counts as the first dance of the evening. The bagpiper will play a foursome reel (sometimes leading the procession as well).The newly-weds enter the hall first, hand in hand. They are followed by the wedding party, then the parents, and finally the guests. The reel can continue as long as people like. It often wraps up with the guests forming a circle around the room. As the music continues, the bride leads her father or grandfather to the center of the floor for their Father-Daughter Dance. Guests can clap along, or you can transition to more modern music. This ritual really builds excitement and energy and allows everyone to be involved.
The Quaich (pronounced "quake") is the traditional Scottish "cup of welcome."
A small metal, horn or wooden drinking bowl designed for holding whisky, it dates back to at least the 16th century and may have originated in Scandinavia -- a distant descendant of the ritual drinking horn. Quaichs bear two handles or "lugs". One is held by the person offering the cup, the other by the person receiving the drink, which represents hospitality and friendship. It was common to offer a guest a dram of whisky in the quaich when they entered your home, and another upon parting (this should remind you of the line from the song..."And we’ll tak' a cup o’ kindness yet, for auld lang syne."
No true Gaelic home is complete without one. Historically, the first time the artesenal "loving cup" was given as a wedding token was in 1589 when King James VI of Scotland gave one to Anne of Denmark. It has become a ritual element of celtic weddings ever since, as well as a classic wedding present.
During a wedding ceremony, the bride and groom may fill the quaich together. Whisky tasting glasses are very handy for this as well as elegant. They then offer each other the whisky (or another beverage). This can be worked in at several points in the proceedings. Usually it is done before or after the vows but always before the handfasting (for obvious reasons!). The cup can also be shared with family members to symbolize the union of the two families. It's a bit like lighting a unity candle, but much more authentic for a Scottish or Irish wedding.
During the reception, the Best Man (or the honored friend you have chosen) should use the quaich during their speech. They may be all set with a personalized toast full of stories about the two of you. However, in addition to whatever they would like to say (or if they are nervous about public speaking!), they may enjoy offering up this traditional, light-hearted wedding blessing written by Scotland's national poet, Robert Burns:
May the best you've ever seen
Be the worst you'll you ever see.
May the mouse ne'er leave your pantry
With a teardrop in its e'
May you lum keep blithly reekin'
Til you old enough to dee.
May you always be just as happy
As I wish you now to be.
It is also a great piece for an officiant or piper to deliver.
Another person who traditionally offers a toast to the couple at the reception is the bagpiper. After processing the newly wedded couple into the hall, the piper should be offered payment for his services -- hence the expression "paying the piper". This payment would of course be monetary (though realistically you will actually be paying the piper with a check at another time). However just as importantly, payment included a drink from the quaich. As he is presented with the dram, the piper traditionally toasts the good health of the couple. This is a more rare custom nowadays, but it is about as Scottish as it gets and worth considering, especially if your piper has outdone himself.
The quaich may also be passed around the room allowing each guest to raise a toast. This is another ancient tradition which is also sometimes enjoyed during Ceilidhs (Celtic dance parties) -- with each person holding the quaich having a chance to toast, sing or tell a short story before quaffing their whisky, But be warned, Celtic toasting can sometimes be more like Celtic roasting, especially as more and more guests offer anecdotes about the bride or groom!
After the big day, your wedding quaich can have a proud place in your home. Quaichs are often displayed on the mantle, with wedding photos, or a piece of the family tartan. And naturally you will want to bring it out for any special occasions such as holiday dinners to share with loved ones and rekindle fond memories.
"Tying the knot" is more than a slang expression, it's a form of celtic wedding vows.
"Handfasting", in which a couple literally have their hands tied together with a cord, was just one of many ancient Celtic marriage forms permitted under the Irish "Brehon" Law. The man and woman who came together for the hand-fasting agreed to stay together for a specific period of time. Usually it was "a year and a day." At the end of the year, the couple could enter into a "permanent" marriage contract, renew their agreement for another year, or go their separate ways.
The handfasting custom, which started in pagan times, continued throughout the post-Christianization period and spread throughout Celtic lands, not merely Ireland. It was practical. In a rural village with no resident priest, you could do a handfasting with just a single witness. Later on, a priest could "finish up" the wedding with a Christian ceremony. Handfasting cords were also far more affordable than wedding rings!
Nowadays, the practice is often included as part of a larger wedding ceremony, usually as the couple speak their vows. For this, you will want to have on hand a piece of braided cord (perhaps in wedding colors) or ribbon. Best of all is to have a strip of the family tartan (remnants from the making of a kilt are great). If both families have tartans, you may want to braid the two together to enhance the symbolism. Flower garlands, ivy, and fancy decorative ribbon, even remnants from vintage wedding gowns can also be used to create handfasting chords which can become heirloom items.
Here's a sample version of the handfasting ceremony you can share with your officiant:
"Groom" and "Bride" wish to close this ceremony with the traditional Celtic handfasting. This symbolic binding of hands is the source of terms like "Bonds of Holy Matrimony" and to "tie the knot." Throughout the history of our ancestors, and in many parts of the world, this act has symbolized the commitment of two people, one to the other. While the cords themselves are impermanent, much the way life on earth is, the bond they represent, the true bond of love, is undying.
"Bride", "Groom", please join your right hands.
As you hold hands, the cord is wrapped around your wrists in a figure eight -- a symbol of eternity. You can also hold hands and touch your elbows together and have the officiant wrap the cord around your forearms. Either way, it should be lose enough for you to hold hands comfortably, perhaps while kissing, and also for when you recess from the ceremony.
"Groom" and "Bride", this cord symbolizes your two lives. Once separate, they are now bound together as one. Where you have lived separately in thought, word and action, now you move into the future together. May you find joy, satisfaction and growth in all things. May your life together be a blessing for you, and for all those lives you will touch.
You can now have the officiant introduce you as a married couple and close the ceremony. However, the handfasting can be done at almost any point in a wedding celebration. It is a nice way to join together while reciting your vows. Get creative and make it your own special moment!
More on Celtic Wedding Traditions coming up!