We often say that the Argyll jacket and vest is the essential go-to of Highland Wear. But is it? And what exactly is an Argyll jacket anyway?

While most people will assume the Argyll is a black jacket with shiny metal buttons and epaulettes, the term actually applies to more than that particular configuration. The term Argyll jacket was coined many many years ago by the Highland Dress industry to differentiate a basic suit jacket they sold from regular "Saxon wear" jackets. It was a shorthand for something that "looked Scottish."

In practical terms, this meant a jacket that incorporated certain elements of traditional Highland doublets, which were an outgrowth of Victorian military clothing. The elements that define a basic Argyll jacket are:

- Epaulettes, braided or flat
- Decorative cuffs with buttons combined with raised stitching, piping or applique. The most common form is the "gauntlet cuff"
- Flap pockets with decoration that matches the jacket cuffs
- Double venting (all Highland Wear jackets are double-vented as single vents look bad with the kilt)

Notice we did NOT list the fabric or color. An Argyll jacket may be made form any jacket fabric. The black barathea wool we are used to seeing is the most common since it allows the jacket to be used for anything from day wear to evening wear. The next most common fabric is tweed. Most tweed kilt jackets are in fact styled as "Argyll" but use non-shiny buttons of some sort (antler is most common).

So, yes, the basic black Argyll set is still a great first jacket for any kilt wearer, but the Argyll _style_ is broad. The appointments do exactly what they are intended to do - they scream "this is traditional Gaelic fashion not English."

However...Do you have to go this way? Not at all.

Enter the Wallace Kilt Jacket.

The Wallace jacket, or contemporary kilt jacket, is actually something of a throw-back to Edwardian times. Before the 1920s, if you wanted a jacket to wear with your kilt, you had two basic options:

A. A doublet, ala the military or bagpiper look
B. "Make me a suit jacket cut short to go with my kilt"

If you look at 19th and early 20th century photos, you will see a wide variety of interpretations - some of the doublets look very close to what the Argyll would become. Some jackets look just like what any Victorian gentleman might wear, just a bit shorter. And sometimes not even that, especially if you were a working man like a professional Ghillie.

In the last forty or so years kilt wearing has gained huge popularity and once again become more of a daily option - no merely a "special occasions only" sort of thing. This has led to gentlemen wanting something less stuffy, more streamlined, and basically simpler as a jacket choice. Tailors got more requests like "make me an Argyll, but leave off all those bits and bobs."

It became clear that a standard 'off the peg' option was desired and the style now called 'Wallace' was re-invented. The Wallace Kilt Jacket has a sleeker line than the Argyll with a three-button closure and smaller lapels. There are no special decorations, though shiny metal buttons are an option. Instead, the shape of the jacket itself, and the barathea wool do the talking. Similarly, the matching vest is unadorned.

The Wallace is not quite dressy enough for Black Tie events, but otherwise is a great all-around kilt suit jacket. If it is not your Number One choice, it may be your Number Two as you expand your kilt wardrobe.

CUSTOM Wallace jackets can be made. Please write for more information.